I had a slight anxiety about going to Naples, which was quite unnecessary as it happens, since it was much nicer than I remember it. Thinking about that first trip in 1978, I don't remember one single distinguished meal there, except the pizza we ate in pizzeria that was little more than a cave, rough walled, with a couple of formica topped tables and a pizza oven in a corner. There was rough wine and paper napkins and those were the only distinguishing features. There were about 3 types of pizza available. It was OK.
On this trip we only ate pizza once. This is because of my desire not to eat flour products (I did try, but not hard enough, and it doesn't seem to have made any difference to my foot health). The pizza we had was dire, served luke warm, I had a seafood topping which was basically a nice pile of sea food mix, on top of what was essentially passata soaked dough. Mark had something more elaborate but it was lukewarm and soggy, not in a good way. However, overall, our experience of food on the trip was not much better. I will make a longer blog about that subsequently.
What is great about Naples is that the people are incredibly helpful, and fairly charming - although the waiters keep asking you how the food is, which is awkward when all you want to say is "Average". The sights of Naples are astonishing because many of the most beautiful things are hardly mentioned, such as the 4/5th C baptistery in Santa Restituta, part of the Cathedral. We didn't go to Pompeii, but we did visit Herculaneum - where things were sadly decayed. Wall paintings and mosaics are largely unprotected. RSJs have been introduced periodically to prop things up. There is a good deal of scaffolding.
As a whole Naples itself does not have any stand out iconic buildings or works of art, however, it has an incredible wealthy of very good buildings and works of art. So while there are no "must see" destinations there is something wherever you look.
On this trip we only ate pizza once. This is because of my desire not to eat flour products (I did try, but not hard enough, and it doesn't seem to have made any difference to my foot health). The pizza we had was dire, served luke warm, I had a seafood topping which was basically a nice pile of sea food mix, on top of what was essentially passata soaked dough. Mark had something more elaborate but it was lukewarm and soggy, not in a good way. However, overall, our experience of food on the trip was not much better. I will make a longer blog about that subsequently.
What is great about Naples is that the people are incredibly helpful, and fairly charming - although the waiters keep asking you how the food is, which is awkward when all you want to say is "Average". The sights of Naples are astonishing because many of the most beautiful things are hardly mentioned, such as the 4/5th C baptistery in Santa Restituta, part of the Cathedral. We didn't go to Pompeii, but we did visit Herculaneum - where things were sadly decayed. Wall paintings and mosaics are largely unprotected. RSJs have been introduced periodically to prop things up. There is a good deal of scaffolding.
As a whole Naples itself does not have any stand out iconic buildings or works of art, however, it has an incredible wealthy of very good buildings and works of art. So while there are no "must see" destinations there is something wherever you look.
 |
| I can't remember what this building was, but it was at the bottom of the Via Toledo I think - and there is architecture like this everywhere, despite frequent earthquakes and terrible bombardment in WW2 by us, the US and the Germans.
The real joy of Naples is wandering the streets and dropping into things as you wish. Being able to go to the famous Caffe on the Pzza Trento e Trieste and just sit and stare is great. And of course there are the endless glimpses of the bay and of Vesuvius - so although not "every prospect pleases" a great many do.
Parts of Naples have been cleaned up a lot since I was last there, and there are places like the Spaccanapoli which were formerly a bit threatening, have now basically become tourist thoroughfares. It's not clear how many people stay in Naples for any length of time. Judging by the BA passengers most of them went to Sorrento and did day trips in, escorted in groups by umbrella-brandishing guides who shwoosh them through Santa Chiara and out again. The Duomo seemed to be the biggest draw, but the beautiful Baptistery was almost empty.
This picture has been doctored a bit, it was quite dim in there. Each of these corner apses has a symbol of the Evangelists. Remarkable how architecture and significant groups seem to fit. Suppose there had been 5 evangelists? How would that have worked?
I would love to go to Naples again, and see the things I missed, and find better places to eat, or at least have lower expectations this time!
|
No comments:
Post a Comment